Skim Coating Wall with Plaster over Existing Wall Texture
Skim Coating Wall with Plaster over Existing Wall Texture
http://hometips.gregvan.com/drywall_and_plaster.htm Watch Greg Vandenberg as he skim coats over an existing wall texture that he didn't like and how he fixed...
I have a horse plaster wall. it had wallpaper on it for years. I stripped
ReplyDeletethe wallpaper, filled the holes. Now I'm left with a bumpy wall with some
glue left, edges that are impossible to get clean. If I scrape to hard I
make holes in the plaster. So I will use a one inch molding to cover them.
But I want to skim coat the walls with joint compound. I want to know if
I can use a roller, put the joint compound on thin but leave a texture. Let
it dry, then prime and paint it, is that possible?
That's not plaster. What you've got there is a bucket of powdered
ReplyDeletelimestone, PVA glue and water...
I have a room I want to plaster is this the proper sequence? ....light
ReplyDeletesanding on the walls, paint with some type of sealer, then plaster with a
joint compound, then sand after drying, then apply another coat of plaster?
did I leave out anything? thanks greg
What kind of mud? All purpose or lightweight?
ReplyDeleteI don't know if you can blame others for hurting your trade, its progress
ReplyDeleteand it might not be the best, but that's the way it is. Drywall is
obviously easier to install, making it cheaper and readily available to the
masses. However, I remember watching an extremely gifted plasterer one
time, make everyone else look like beginners. It's nice to see someone with
pride, still working in the business.
If you already have a pre-existing wall that's finished or textured, then
ReplyDeletethe first step would be to clean it with soap and water, then apply joint
compound and if necessary, continue applying joint compound until surfaces
is flat or flat enough to start sanding. I have had to applying multiple
layers of joint compound more than five times on walls with thick textures.
@MultiSpread Veneer plastering is common in the N.E.; even HomeDepot has
ReplyDeletestacks of "blueboard". They seem to like to texture everything in the S.W.,
which could sortof be called plastering, though I think textured walls
would be a pain. I suspect most DIYers are better off mudding/taping;
they'd make a fine mess of real plaster. I usually only skim to cover up a
texture I don't like. "Gray coating" on wire or rock lathe is very uncommon
here, though. Do they sill do that over there?
This is one of the ways you can do it and it's what I used and haven't had
ReplyDeleteany problems since. As far as the process or should I say the length of it,
2300 square feet, is a lot of area and I strongly suggests that you start
with the smallest room or even a closet, to give yourself a better idea,
just how long it will take and whether or not it will be better to hire a
professional.
DRY WALL AND PLASTERING ARE TWO COMPLETE DIFFERENT TRADES IF YOU DON'T
ReplyDeleteBELIEVE ME TRY CROWN MOLDING WITH DRY WALL .I AM SO TRIED OF DRY WALLERS
SAYING THY ARE AS SKILLED AS A JOURNEYMAN PLASTER THERE IS JUST NO WAY .5TH
GEN LOCAL 2 AND LOCAL 775 PLASTER 27 YEARS JJL|| P25 ABSOLUTE PLASTERING
AND STUCCO CO. SANTA BARBARA CAL.
I don't recommend sealing or priming and you're right, just start
ReplyDeleteplastering. If you feel it's necessary to sand between each coat, then do
so. I usually sand on my last coat only. You can speed up the process by
using gypsum-based speed set products and topping to make sanding a little
easier.
Do you have a particular manufacturer or product you would like to share
ReplyDeletewith our readers?
One of the biggest problems I've witnessed with home repairs or should I
ReplyDeletesay one of the biggest problems with home repairs in general have to do
with someone applying something else over another part of the building,
like additional layers of flooring, roofing, paneling, tile and siding. I'm
a firm believer in removing and replacing, instead of saving a few dollars,
but especially and I repeat the word especially if you're looking for
long-term results.
@sageboss101 I don't know when I will be skin coating a wall, but maybe I
ReplyDeletecan use a few pictures and make another video. I will do the best I can,
but don't forget to check out some of the other videos on plastering. I
didn't use plaster, I used joint compound and you can usually find that at
your local lumber yard or home improvement center.
I been told I can do this over my painted walls. Is this true or will I
ReplyDeletehave to sand them some first?
What is the recipe or instructions for adding water to the joint compound?
ReplyDeleteCan this process be used on severely damaged walls? The walls in question
ReplyDeletewere tiled but I have removed the tile. The resulting surface has torn
paper from the drywall. Is this salvageable or do I need to replace the
drywall? Will the results be worse than replacement?
and in regards to skimming over a painted wall? ( the person did not float
ReplyDeletethe walls just put joint tape!!!) i am not wanting to replace all the
drywall , any suggestions>??? thanks for the video!
I apologize, but you should get a general idea. The texture was a light
ReplyDeleteknock down and wasn't very thick in this particular area.
What part of the US are you from? The guys ive spoken to over there say its
ReplyDeletealive and well. I guess it depends on the part of the country your from. In
fact the trowels we use over here and the one your using Marshalltown are
from the states.
Nice job I'm from London England and all we do over here is plaster. How
ReplyDeletepopular and where is it most popular over there?
@gregvancom oh ya your right
ReplyDeleteTwo ways to go with this and I have successfully done both. first you may
ReplyDelete'float out' the damaged drywall by using 'topping' mud or thinned drywall
mud. You will have to have the 'touch' to lay it on just thin enough to
cover the damage. Two or three coats will be required. Next you can use 1/4
inch drywall and overlay the damaged drywall. Careful as you will probably
have to extend your fixtures.
@bomanton Just add enough water until the joint compound is easy to work
ReplyDeletewith and spread. Too much water will create a soupy mess, but when I'm
working with my second coat, I like to have it a little wetter, than my
first mix. Trial and error my friends, trial and error.
I think u need to be more discriptive so we can know that it is not just
ReplyDeletehard but how to make it like u do it but other then that it was pretty good
and why did youdo it so fast please do it slower next time in some way your
post is great but make it not for u and for us so we can do the same
thingplus we know your good but we want to be good and ummm how many times
did take u to be that good plus it was kinda short and how do u get so much
plaster thanks ps nice job hope you can do a new post
I have a question regarding skim coating....just bought a house and there
ReplyDeleteare about 3 different textures styles throughout the house so I need to
re-texture some walls to make the same...can I skim coat over the existing
paint and texture in order to then respray texture or do I need to sand
down the existing paint first??